Saturday, May 24, 2008

Sweeney Todd Collection Boards and Technical Flats

I presented my project for sketching class yesterday....


I made an...... A!!!!!!!!!


I could not believe it!


I had just made a B but then she gave an extra 8 points for creativity.


NO ONE else got that :-)


Just the Milla :-)


There were some awesome Projects... I really loved this one guy's who did a "Pretty Woman" Collection and this one chick's who did one inspired by the Tuscany region.


She had a really cute tomato olive dress.


But here are my complete boards with my fabric samples, colour story and technical flats...


I know that most people who are not fashion designers or fashion students have never probably heard of technical flats.


They are like the garment "blueprints" with all the indications for gathers, darts, seams, zippers, buttons etc that help the pattern makers make a design into a real garment.


There are SO many steps they skip over on Project Runway because the same people are designin the garment and making the garment. That hardly ever happens in industry.


Designers have to learn everything though. Sketching, sewing. tailoring, draping, drafting flats and patterns, computer aided design ( now most of this stuff is done on computer on programs like InDesign and Photoshop), styling , merchandising and a bunch of other stuff... And people think that science and medicine are hard... blah...cry babies...ask a surgery resident what is the difference between a Spanish farthingale and a crinoline and or a blanket stitch and a padstich and they would go duh!


As I said.. just having ONE interest must suck....


My flats are kind of wonky and it's where I usually loose more points because my lines are not perfect when I ink them. Because of my dyscalculia I have a bit of trouble with eye-hand cordination and seein straight lines. I have to try about 3 times before I can draw a straight line. With a ruler. i know the hard stuff is easy and the easy is hard...


Here is the first board with the opposite angle back pose with the "assless chaps" riding jeans and the "slit throat" beaded t-shirt.


You can see the flocked velvet denim and the trim on the t-shirt and the leather in my samples...



In the center pannel I had the three figures (two opposite angles and a 3/4 back because of the bustle) and my title.


I tried to use the rhinestones and similar effect of blood used on the t-shirt and movie titles by Tim Burton... I also used the buttons that go on the little tank top..



They LOVED the spat booties...


You can go back to the first picture and see all of the fabrics I rendered on this pannel.


And the third pannel has the 5th figure and my colour story . I used stills from the movie that I colour printed and then vanished with an antiquing glaze made with Elmer's glue and sienna water colour and water to make the photos look old.


[[[iframe]]]d the chips for the colour story in black lace trim to add to the Victorian-Gothic feel of the whole thing...



And here are the flats... since I used the reduced croquis (90%) and used my original inked flats insted of reducing further with a copy machine, I had to mount them on the back of the boards...








All of these were done by hand... A ton of work.


And that was a 5 look collection of separates.


A collection for a major show, like at Bryant Park or London Fashion Week or Haute Couture in Paris is about 32 looks.


Now you have a vague idea of the amount of work that might take...


And I am doing 12 looks for my student collection....


I got an A in Fashion History and a B in sketching overall. As I projected 3.5. While going through hell, unemployed with collectors calling me, interviewing for jobs and sometimes hungry...And I also did an acne manuscript for the American Journal of Dermatology and two eDetails in oncology.


Yep. I am a Goddess.







Wednesday, May 21, 2008

My Daddy, Me and "Chidhood Obesity"

My mom was telling me about finding letters from my dad and my grandfather from 1954 when he was in shipped off to a boarding school in Hamburg.
My dad came from a broken home. His parents divorced in 1953 when he was 11 because of marital incompatibility and infidelity.
For some unbeknownst reason, my grandfather who was a jerk, got at the time custody of my dad who was a super gifted, yet nerdy chubby child.
Basically the only people who really loved my dad as a kid were his grandmothers and his brother, my uncle Don who is my dad's half-brother.
Yes, my peoples were WAY ahead of their times with Liz Taylor/ J-Lo/Britney going ons...
Well, my mom read in the letters that my grandfather constantly harassed and tormented my dad about his height and his weight. And put my dad through the same kind of Joseph Mengele-type experimentation for growth/weight loss me and my younger brother were subjected to.
My dad went through super low calorie diets. Pills. Brutal execise regimens and endless series of HCG shots. Maybe the shots dysregulated his immune function and ended up causing the cancer that killed him?
Yes, we lost weight. Yes, we grew. But I don't think anymore than we would have grown on our own, given time. And why was it so fucking crucial that we were thin? WHY?
We are built a certain way. We are awesome people with privileged brains. Why do we have to be fucking thin too? Why is what we are not fucking enough?
All the weight we lost, was basically through time regained. None of us eats sensational portions of " bad foods". We eat what our slender friends eat and what out slimmer relatives eat. And yet, we remain chubby. That is our constitution.
And the worst part about it was that my mom was SHOCKED about how cruel my Opa ( grandfather) had been to my daddy about his weight.
I told her to see HERSELF reflected exactly the same way in him, because that is the EXACT same way she has treated me all along.
THERE IS NO CHILDHOOD OBESITY EPIDEMIC. NOWHERE.
THERE IS NO OBESITY EPIDEMIC ANYWHERE.
What there is a bunch of unscrupulous researchers who will exploit prejudice and insecurities to keep their careers going and grants coming in.
There are a bunch of unscrupulous companies who are willing to destroy the self esteem of children and adults and maybe their health long-term in order to make a profit and who have de facto created a new oppressed group and a non-existent pseudopathological condition.
And the only thing that keeps happening, is that we are going to have more and more children and adults like me and my daddy who were turned into veritable experimental animals and treated cruelly our entire lives so these fucks can make a buck...
My dad finally died a thin person in 2001 of non-Hodgkins lymphoma and a pneumonia that he could not overcome because the chemo had taken all the strenght out of him and he was too thin and too weak for his immune system to work properly.
The medical system exploited him to the very last minute and they were charging even for procedures he did not have because he was insured until they dried up the insurance money.
But the last time I saw him alive his leg was as thick as my wrist.
I hope my grandfather was finally fucking happy.
For us thinness means illness and chubbiness means health. But the medical and scientific assholes will not accept that there are different phenotypes of humans when it comes to weight and size. Fuck you idiots! There are big dogs, there are small dogs. BOTH kinds of dogs are normal in their phenotype. What is so fucking hard to understand there?
Here is an article by Paul Campos that explains things pretty well.
I love you daddy. I know you are watching over me. I am fighting back for what has been done to both of us.
Love,
Your Little Fish.
CAMPOS: A $10,000 'obesity' challenge

By Paul Campos
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Tuesday, May 20, 2008
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The Washington Post is running a week-long front-page series regarding the supposed crisis childhood "obesity" poses to the nation. It provides reporters and editors with a blueprint for how to engage in hysterical fearmongering while committing egregious journalistic malpractice.

First, string together a long series of alarmist claims, backed by a bunch of random and unverifiable anecdotes. Garnish this with a smattering of misleading and context-free statistics.

Second, treat data-free assumptions and speculations as if they actually constituted well-established facts, not contested by any reasonable person.

Third, make sure to throw in lots of stuff about how all sorts of spectacular catastrophes are "expected" to take place in the conveniently distant future.

Fourth, and most important, hoodwink your readers into believing that a highly controversial issue isn't controversial at all, by ignoring the many experts on the issue who disagree completely with the basic thesis of your story.

The Post series is a textbook example of all these strategies. Here are a few things its readers would never guess:

* Ever since public health records began to be compiled in America in the mid-19th century, the following statement has always been true: Today's children are both larger and healthier, on average, than those of a generation ago.

* In the 1950s and 1960s, government officials claimed constantly that we were facing a public health crisis because Americans in general, and children in particular, were becoming fat and sedentary.

Indeed, the very same predictions being made today about what will happen 40 and 50 years from now were also made, in almost precisely the same terms, 40 and 50 years ago. These predictions turned out to be not merely wrong, but exactly the opposite of what actually happened.

* The current definitions of what constitutes an overweight or obese child were invented recently by public health officials, so they could give a scientific-sounding answer to the question of how many children are "overweight" and "obese."

To be precise, children are currently classified as overweight or obese if they occupy what represented the 85th and 95th percentiles of height-weight growth charts in the 1960s and 1970s.

If you're wondering what the rationale for this definition is, the answer is that there isn't one. It's an arbitrary number that is now being exploited by government officials eager to sell the idea that we face a health crisis (again, American children and adults are healthier now than they've ever been).

* Many doctors, epidemiologists, eating disorder specialists, political scientists, sociologists, anthropologists and scholars from other disciplines have concluded that claims we face an "obesity crisis" are either greatly exaggerated or completely false.

One reason why fearmongering for dollars (described to me by a government researcher as the theory that "we're all going to die if you don't fund my next study") is so perennially successful is that there are almost never any negative consequences for those who engage in it.

Here's one small step that could be taken to address that. The first story in the Post's series cites a 2005 study predicting a two-to-five-year drop in life expectancy "unless aggressive action manages to reverse obesity rates." Jay Olshansky, the study's lead author, is quoted in the story as saying that "five years may be an underestimate."

I challenge Olshansky to the following wager: If, at any decennial census going forward, obesity rates have risen or remained the same, and life expectancy in America has declined, I'll pay him $10,000. If we don't get any thinner but life expectancy has risen, he'll pay me the same sum.

These are, given Olshansky's predictions, quite generous terms in his favor. (If he has scruples against gambling, we can make a charitable contribution in the other's name).

Well?

Paul Campos is a professor of law at the University of Colorado. He can be reached at paul.campos@colorado.edu.
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© Rocky Mountain News

Monday, May 19, 2008

Mexican 80’s Show Biz and Uncle Mitzi Designer to the Stars

I moved to the US for University in the late 80's.
Before that I was mainly in Mexico City and was very involved in show biz because I loved dance and acting and my grandmother worked for the TV network (Televisa) and the the Mexican counterpart to SAG/Equity.
and I went to school with a lot of people that eventually became famous in show biz in Mexico like Thalia Sodi ( who had a clothing line at Kmart and married Tommy Motola, Mariah Carey's ex-husband), Mariana Levy who was a close friend when we were little. Mariana's mom , TV conductor Talina Fernandez, was a schoolmate and friend of my dad's from the Alexander Von Humboldt German school so our parents had always know each other. Angelica Vale who played Ugly Betty in the Mexican version of the show, also went to my same school. Her mom, actress and singer Angelica Maria, loved me to bits because I had worked with her and actor Andres Garcia as a child actor in a soap opera called "Ana Del Aire".
Two of the singers from the super-famous Mexican pop band Timbiriche, Benny Ybarra and Sasha Sokol. ended up going to the performing arts prep school I got admitted to in Boston, Walnut Hill. She ended up developping a fairly bad case of drug addiction and bulimia. My mom did not let me go to Boston before finishing HS. I had to wait until Uni which maybe stopped me from making my bulimia/ anorexia more serious at a younger age ( I did not hit rock bottom with my ED until 23) and forced me to actually pay more mind to my academics in school because otherwise I would have only cared about my dance and acting and costume design.
Well, there were other people in this band Timbriche. There was a girl named Alix, another girl Mariana Garza and another one named Paulina Rubio. After Sasha left the band because she went off to Boston mostly to put the brakes on an affairs with an innapropriately older producer, Thalia joined the band.
They also were in a chil-actor version of the play "Grease" ( my daughter Saffi was in it like 3 years ago) with a lot of all the people that later on became actors or alternantes in Timbiriche like Eric Rubin, Guillermo Capetillo and Lolita Cortez.
Well, I know that Paulina Rubio is and has always been an evil bitch.
She was miserable to Thalia, Eric and Lolita who was by a LANDSLIDE the most talented of the bunch.
She was straight out of "Mean Girls" vicious and both Lolita and Thalia probably carry that with them and I know Eric does too.
Well there is this Mexican fashion designer called Mitzi.
He is known and makes glitzy stagewear spangly dresses for all the Mexican star (lets), drag queens like Francis ( RIP) and so on.
My family has known Mitzi for years too, because he has his store/ atelier in the Pink Zone of Mexico city where my Dad had his office, across the street from the Ramua beauty salon where all the big time show biz divas got their hair did.
Ramua is pretty tight with my Mum who got her hair done with him. He used to do the hair of Maria Felix too. Both Ramua, Mitizi and my "uncle" Bernardo who had an apparment in the same building as my dad's office and an appartment.
My uncle Bernardo was an entretainer in cruise ships and had been a dancer for long time.
Mitzi did his costumes. So I knew all these people, older gay men involved peripheraly in show biz since I was fairly young. When I say I was raised in the gay communtiy I am not kidding.
Last time I saw uncle Mitzi was at the fabric store in LA when I was there with Jeremiah in one of my trips there to visit him. Mitzi was shocked as all hell to see me there.
Every one expected me to be in like London or Toronto or something, married to some researcher guy in some sort of nerdy occupation.
Well, Mitzi is actually an excellent craftsman and does some of the most beautiful hand beading this side of Broderies Lesage in Switzerland. He has ran a fairly successfull business all these years in what it is that he does.
I was even going to outsource one of the dresses for my student collection that is completely beaded to him.
I am also outsourcing the chain mail in one of my garments. It's not Project Runway. I see no particular merit in making everything by myself with my own two hands. I am the designer, not necessarily the seamstress or tailor. That is just being a control freak. Outsourcing to other people who are experts in certain things allows me the freedom to produce exactly what I want at the highest level and to do justice to my vision as a designer.
I can sew and I can tailor and can bead VERY well, but I am putting out a full collection. I cannot do everything by myself. And the people that I am outsourcing the work to, do these things better than me.Shocking, eh? Humility..
The designs are 100% mine though.
It's not like Galliano or Lagerfeld hand make every garment that they design.
Mitzi has also known Thalia and Pau and Vero Castro and everyone forever.
He made Thalia's wedding gown.
Well, he just made this dress where he put Thalia in the back portrayed as an Aztec Goddess.
With Pau at her feet as a servant maid giving her an offering. That is like a sartorial "reading".
Dissing Pau and saying that she is nothing but a maid when compared to Thalis.
I agree but he did not need to say it.
To top things off, he had Niurka Marcos, who is like, I don't know, the equivalent of Britney/Paris/ some lady that does a lot of scandalous shit but is not aprticularly known for being refined or for her talent model the dress.
Yikes...
It is a huge publicity stunt by Mitzi and publicity in a way for both Pau and Thalis.
He has also done a Niurka modelled creation with Veronica Castro and her son Christian in the back.
They have been in some sort of feud too.
But seriously, I think that as a designer uncle Mitzi is better than that. He does what he does ( Kayne Gillespie/ Bob Mackie type stuff) really well and is good at that.
I think that by stooping to such publicity stunts and getting involved in that stuff he is taking away from his merit as a designer.
But he brought back up to the surface old wounds and shit that has been going on since we all were kids.
It might be publicity for everyone but in my opinion, he's bringing back up stuff from years ago and bygones should be bygones. I mean these people are lucky enough to have made good lives for themselves and heal.
Bringing up that shit is not going to help things after 30 years..
..

paulina thalia general











Friday, May 16, 2008

ANTM, NKOTB, Miss England, And Life Update

I needed to write about this because I am pretty happy about the results about America's Next Top Model.


Finally Whitney a sort of plus size model ( she is pretty much a normal but not emaciated versus true plus model) was crowned as the winner of America's. Next. Top. Model. She is a very pretty girl and takes really amazing pictures.


Whitney Photo 5


Whitney Photo 6


Whitney Photo 9


Whitney Photo 13



I would have liked to see more of those because this last cycle, the photo shoots really were not as creative as in the past.


So far my favourites were the circus side show freak and the cross dressing ones.


I know... my taste runs towards the really edgy. They are starting to call me Asrael Abyss Prince of Darkness at school...ROFL


I am seriously considering having some of the past plus-size ANTM girls walk for my student show. That would be awesome...Them and a couple of other cool people that ideally I would love to walk for me. I mean my show is going to be the plus size show that defines a new market in plus size fashion in the US, the first Designer Contemporary Plus Size line in the price range and market, so it opens a bunch of new possibilities. So far only the Elena Miro show is the the only thing that comes remotely close.


I am also really happy about that gorgeous plus ( she is like a 12-14) contestant in Miss England. She is just beautiful and fierce. She should win too. She reminds me of Liv Tyler and Susan Dey in her Partrige Family days.


Chloe Marshall


These two girls: Beautiful.


Sarah Jessica Parker and Victoria Bekham? Not remotely beautiful


I am also kind of stoked about the New Kids On The Block Comeback. I kind of have a thing/ guilty pleasure for boy bands. NKOTB, 'NSYNC, Backdoor ( sorry), Backstreet Boys and so on.


Jordan and Donny are looking smoking hot I have to say... They are hotter at 30-something than they were at 17. And that is rare. Usually, men loose their dreaminess when they can legally drink. Men are like absinthe. They kind of loose some appeal when they are actually not verbotten. And they do peak at 17-18.


And I LOVE their songs.


I also loved 'NSYNC's " No Strings Attached". I think my punk card is going to get revoked, but I love me some boybands.


I turned in my "Sweeney Todd" Collection Boards this afternoon and I worked all night and to the last minute because of the technical flats for the last look.


She still ripped me a new asshole because I mounted my flats on the back of the board. Thre was no fucking way in hell the flats for 12 garments were going to fit on the boards with 5 figures, 13 fabric samples , the colour story and graphics and not look like a pinata threw up all over them. I did not work that hard on those boards to have them overcrowed and oveshadowed by too much shit around them.


More than anything they want the precise presentation so they can be entered in the state community college competition. In my case, I don't care and I would actually be happy if they did not. The less people that see them there, the less likely someone will steal my ideas and yes, I am planning on shopping the collection around because it is very market-ready and friendly with forcasted trends.


I also finished the database for my fashion history class and I have a "final" job interview onsite with a biggish biotech on Tuesday after 9 months of interviews for this position.


I only have my fashion history final and the oral presentation of the collection on Friday.


My life is so freaking schizophrenic. But nowadays it's the only way to survive. Having a couple of professions.


Everyone is saying that the pharma industry might finish imploding in 2011 because of the blockbusters that go off patent and jackshit in the pipelines.


At least I am smart enough to have fashion to fall back on :-)

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Sweeney Todd Collection: The Pulled From The Bum Look

I finished the 5th look for the collection.


I was going to do the filthy Victorian "Mrs. Lovett's Pies" dress but once I started I realized that it made no sense with the rest of the collection.


It was long, toile de joy, jade and simply did not fit in with the rest of the separates.


So in true Project Runway fashion, I had to pull a 5th look out of my bum im no time flat and with no previous plans.


But that is what good designers do.


I had to make sure I used again fabrics that I had used and that it it fit in seamlessly with the rest of the collection.


And it had to be a 3/4 front look.


So I did a short floked velvet denim pantaloon-jean with a denim jacket with a peplus made of the denim with the gold print and with organza/satin ribbon trim on the 3/4 sleeves. I added the tank top I had on the leather trench coat look and created brown velvet court shoes with gold embroidery and a large "Erzuli Freda" Veve hobo bag.


I got the idea for the last one from Sasha Baron Cohen's costume in the movie.



So here are the pictures and the whole collection...


Now I only have to do the last two flats and put everything on the boards...














Geezus... I can't believe I go it done!



Sunday, May 11, 2008

Sweeney Todd Sketch 4 +Mad Crazy Work

I just finished the 4th sketch for the collection.



Only one left.



This one I had to paper doll ( cut out of the sheet to glue on the board right away)



It has a denim bustle skirt made out of three different denims, a trompe l'oeuil corset long sleeved t-shirt, victorian boots and "La Sirene" Veve Tote bag.



It was HARD because of the pose. I had no experience doing a 3/4 back pose but it was the best way to show off a bustle. She also has dreadlocks ( inspired by Lisa Bonet) and a newsboy hat in the distressed paisley corduroy of the vest in the first look.



I paper-dolled the first three looks for the center board for my presentation.



I need to do the two side pannels ( with my fabrics, colour story and two other looks) and add my spec sheet along with the market study info.



Lots of Work...



But here are the pictures...















This is just crazy...



I hope you like it thus far...





Saturday, May 10, 2008

My Fashion ESP:Steampunk and Trends Forecasting

When you look at the fashion mags and shows on TV and sometimes even the fashion shows, you get an eschewed view of the fashion world and about how things work.


From that glamourous perspective it seem that trends and ideas trickle from the "top" to the bottom. That means that the concept is that fashion trends and ideas trickle down from what is created for the Haute Couture and high end Pret-A-Porter ( ready-to-wear) and from what"celebrities" wear.


Which could not be further from the truth.


As any professional fashion trend forecaster can tell you, this is the exception rather than the rule in fashion and has been so for the past, oh, 70 years or since the 40's more or less.


The tendecies in fashion have been to seep upwards from the countercultures into Haute Couture and then down the echelons.


That is why trend forecasters every year don't go check out the Olsen Twins or Posh's wardrobe to see what is going to be a trend in the next couple of years, but they travel to Reykyavik, Munich, London, LA, Tokyo, Amsterdam, Paris, Hamburg and Copenhagen to figure out what the kids in the street are doing because the new ideas and trends usually emerge from the countercultures.


Poodle Skirts, Mod, Hippie, disco, New Wave, mini skirts, Punk, Grunge, Gothic Lolitas... all of it from the counterculture to the runways and from there to H&M and Zara and Target.


I have been a counterculture kind of girl since the early 80's. I was a Madonna and Cindy Lauper wannabe. I was a shaved head punk. I have gone through Super- Kawaii and hip hop periods. I have always been 2-3 years ahead in what is going to be hot.


Why? I am just wired that way.


I just channel this shit.


Well I have been working on this Sweeney Todd punk Victorian-ish collection for my sketching final.


Why of all things this one inspired me? Beats me. I was going to do something kind of dark and edgy. That is pretty much my nature. I am not physically capable of doing something sunny and happy and frilly and femenine in manner of Laura Ashley or spangly, pageanty shit a la Badgley Mishka or Bob Mackie. I think I would break out in hives.


It was pretty much going to be Sweeney, or "From Hell", or Port Au Prince or Havana or Rocky Horror or something equally dark, musty, sexy and subversive. I leave the pretty flowers and estrogenic outbursts to other people.


That is just how I roll. I am a rebel and I channel revolution in every mitochondria of every cell of my sublime, juicy body.


Well turns out I am hitting the sweet spot AGAIN with this collection.


There is this countercultural movement called Steampunk. Here is the definition


Steampunk is a subgenre of fantasy and speculative fiction which came into prominence in the 1980s and early 1990s. The term denotes works set in an era or world where steam power is still widely used—usually the 19th century, and often set in Victorian era England—but with prominent elements of either science fiction or fantasy, such as fictional technological inventions like those found in the works of H. G. Wells and Jules Verne, or real technological developments like the computer occurring at an earlier date. Other examples of steampunk contain alternate history-style presentations of "the path not taken" of such technology as dirigibles or analog computers; these frequently are presented in an idealized light, or a presumption of functionality.


Steampunk is often associated with cyberpunk and shares a similar fanbase and theme of rebellion, but developed as a separate movement (though both have considerable influence on each other). Apart from time period and level of technological development, the main difference between cyberpunk and steampunk is that steampunk settings usually tend to be less obviously dystopian than cyberpunk, or lack dystopian elements entirely.


Although many works now considered seminal to the genre were published in the 1960s and 1970s, the term steampunk originated in the late 1980s as a tongue in cheek variant of cyberpunk. It seems to have been coined by the science fiction author K. W. Jeter, who was trying to find a general term for works by Tim Powers (author of The Anubis Gates, 1983), James Blaylock (Homunculus, 1986) and himself (Morlock Night, 1979 and Infernal Devices, 1987) which took place in a Victorian setting and imitated conventions of actual Victorian speculative fiction such as H. G. Wells's The Time Machine. In a letter to the science fiction magazine Locus, printed in the April 1987 issue, Jeter wrote:



Dear Locus,
Enclosed is a copy of my 1979 novel Morlock Night; I'd appreciate your being so good as to route it Faren Miller, as it's a prime piece of evidence in the great debate as to who in "the Powers/Blaylock/Jeter fantasy triumvirate" was writing in the "gonzo-historical manner" first. Though of course, I did find her review in the March Locus to be quite flattering.
Personally, I think Victorian fantasies are going to be the next big thing, as long as we can come up with a fitting collective term for Powers, Blaylock and myself. Something based on the appropriate technology of the era; like "steampunks," perhaps ... -- K.W. Jeter.[1]


Some prototypical steampunk stories were essentially cyberpunk tales that were set in the past, using steam-era technology rather than the ubiquitous cybernetics of cyberpunk but maintaining those stories' "punkish" attitudes towards authority figures and human nature. Originally, like cyberpunk, steampunk was often dystopian, sometimes with noir and pulp fiction themes as in cyberpunk. As the genre developed, it came to adopt more of the broadly appealing utopian sensibilities of Victorian scientific romances.


Steampunk fiction focuses more intently on real, theoretical or cinematic Victorian-era technology, including steam engines, clockwork devices, and difference engines. While much of steampunk is set in Victorian-era settings, the genre has expanded into medieval settings and often delves into the realms of horror and fantasy. Various secret societies and conspiracy theories are often featured, and some steampunk includes significant fantasy elements. There are frequently Lovecraftian, occult and Gothic horror influences as well.


Although many works now considered seminal to the genre were published in the 1960s and 1970s, the term steampunk originated in the late 1980s as a tongue in cheek variant of cyberpunk. It seems to have been coined by the science fiction author K. W. Jeter, who was trying to find a general term for works by Tim Powers (author of The Anubis Gates, 1983), James Blaylock (Homunculus, 1986) and himself (Morlock Night, 1979 and Infernal Devices, 1987) which took place in a Victorian setting and imitated conventions of actual Victorian speculative fiction such as H. G. Wells's The Time Machine. In a letter to the science fiction magazine Locus, printed in the April 1987 issue, Jeter wrote:



Dear Locus,
Enclosed is a copy of my 1979 novel Morlock Night; I'd appreciate your being so good as to route it Faren Miller, as it's a prime piece of evidence in the great debate as to who in "the Powers/Blaylock/Jeter fantasy triumvirate" was writing in the "gonzo-historical manner" first. Though of course, I did find her review in the March Locus to be quite flattering.
Personally, I think Victorian fantasies are going to be the next big thing, as long as we can come up with a fitting collective term for Powers, Blaylock and myself. Something based on the appropriate technology of the era; like "steampunks," perhaps ... -- K.W. Jeter.[1]


Some prototypical steampunk stories were essentially cyberpunk tales that were set in the past, using steam-era technology rather than the ubiquitous cybernetics of cyberpunk but maintaining those stories' "punkish" attitudes towards authority figures and human nature. Originally, like cyberpunk, steampunk was often dystopian, sometimes with noir and pulp fiction themes as in cyberpunk. As the genre developed, it came to adopt more of the broadly appealing utopian sensibilities of Victorian scientific romances.


Steampunk fiction focuses more intently on real, theoretical or cinematic Victorian-era technology, including steam engines, clockwork devices, and difference engines. While much of steampunk is set in Victorian-era settings, the genre has expanded into medieval settings and often delves into the realms of horror and fantasy. Various secret societies and conspiracy theories are often featured, and some steampunk includes significant fantasy elements. There are frequently Lovecraftian, occult and Gothic horror influences as well.


Influences


Steampunk was influenced by, and often adopts the style of the scientific romances of the 19th century, by Jules Verne, H.G. Wells, Mark Twain, and Mary Shelley.[citation needed]


The "Edisonade" stories of the late 1800s and early 1900s, written by Edward S. Ellis, Luis Senarens and others, can also be seen as an influence on Steampunk.[citation needed] Their characters Johnny Brainerd, Frank Reade, Jr., Tom Edison, Jr., and Jack Wright used steam-powered and technologically-advanced vehicles to adventure across the United States and around the world. In addition to providing later writers with early examples of steam-powered science fictional creations, these stories had a direct influence on the "boy inventor" subgenre of science fiction as personified by Tom Swift.


A rather dystopian British alternate history featuring steam-based technology may be found in Keith Roberts' 1968 novel Pavane.


The Moondog comics by George Metzger, published by the Print Mint in 1969 and 1971, embody many aspects of sci-fi/post-apocalyptic steam technology.


Science fiction and fantasy author Michael Moorcock also made several early, and often overlooked, contributions to the genre. The most noteworthy of these are his The Warlord of the Air and its 1974 and 1981 sequels, The Land Leviathan and The Steel Tsar (collectively republished as A Nomad of the Time Streams). Moorcock's works were among the earliest to remold Edwardian and Victorian adventure fiction within a new, ironic futuristic framework, and also had a strong influence on the later absorption of fantasy elements into the steampunk genre.


Sherlock Holmes' War of the Worlds by Manly Wade Wellman and Wade Wellman, published in 1975 as a novel but previously published as a series of magazine stories, places Arthur Conan Doyle's characters Sherlock Holmes and Professor Challenger (who never met in any of Doyle's works) into the events depicted in H.G. Wells's 1897 novel The War of the Worlds, depicting an invasion of London by Martians.


Aside from the fact that he coined the term, K.W. Jeter's 1979 novel Morlock Night (a continuation of Wells's The Time Machine) is cited by most as establishing the genre. However, this novel was preceded by James Blaylock's "The Ape-Box Affair" a decidedly Steampunk story, which appeared in a 1978 edition of Unearth Magazine.


Steampunk as a subculture


Because of the popularity of steampunk with people in the goth, punk, cyber and Industrial subcultures, there is a growing movement towards establishing steampunk or "Steam" as a culture and lifestyle.[6]


The most immediate form of steampunk subculture is the community of fans surrounding the genre. Others move beyond this, attempting to adopt a "steampunk" aesthetic through fashion, home decor and even music. This movement may also be (more accurately) described as "Neo-Victorianism", which is the amalgamation of Victorian aesthetic principles with modern sensibilities and technologies.[7]


"Steampunk" fashion has no set guidelines, but tends to synthesize punk, goth and rivet styles as filtered through the Victorian era.[8] This may include Mohawks and extensive piercings with corsets and tattered petticoats, Victorian suits with goggles and boots with large soles and buckles or straps, and the Lolita fashion and aristocrat styles. Some of what defines steampunk fashion has come from cyberpunk, and cyberlocks are used by some people adopting a steampunk look.


"Steampunk" music is even less defined, and tends to apply to any modern musicians whose music or stage presence evokes a feeling of the Victorian era or steampunk. This may include such diverse artists as Abney Park and Vernian Process and Rasputina.[9][10]


So, the stuff that I have been designing completely out of my gut, fits into this trend and takes it the next step forward, into a commercially viable form, seamlessly...


I swear to God, I am being possesed by someone who knows this shit. I am not sure who it is but damn, they're good...






..



Anyone not courting me with seed money, offers to back my line or with a marriage proposal is on crack....

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Sweeney Todd Collection Sketch 3 + Collection

I just finished the third sketch of the collection.


It's a premium Italian leather trench coat, iridiscent denim fall front jeans trimmed in black suede with button-up ankle closures, a cotton tank top with an organza/lace/ribbon trim and lace buttons, a structured "Veve" frame handbag with the Veve for Baron Samedi, point d'esprit lace fingerless gloves and a Victorian style veiled mourning hat. I did anoter pair of boots too this ones have a rose vine going up the black part of the shoe and are trimmed with a leather rosette.


I am also posting pictures of the whole collection so far so you can see the cohesion , theme and flow so far....


I hope you like it...












Cool, eh?


Sunday, May 4, 2008

Sweeney Todd Collection: Sketch 2

I just finished the second sketch for the collection.


This one is a back view since I have to do one.


I did a Victorian-style riding jean in a brown velvet flocked denim with seat and thigh insets of italian premium leather.


I also did a white stretch cotton t-shirt with beading and ribbon around the neck to simulate a slit throat ( Yes, I know but it's the movie and it's original) , red Swarowski crystals to simulate blood drops and a crushed velvet lettering applique that says " Never Forget"... The front says "Never Forgive" ( This could be a political t-shirt about the present administration after they leave office).


I also designed a black Italian leather tote bag with a heart with a dagger going through it...


It is a stylized tattoo version of the Veve for Erzulie Dantor, the Loa for Love and Revenge and protector of spurned love.



I also gave her Helena Bonham Carter's hair from the movie....



So here are the pictures...









.. me know what you think...